Edward Molyneux's designs were popular with actresses such as Vivien Leigh and Gertrude Lawrence. He also designed for members of the European aristocracy and royalty. He was one of the great British fashion designers, along with Norman Hartnell and Victor Steibel.
Edward Molyneux’s Early Career
Born in London in 1891, Molyneux originally wanted to be a painter. He won a design contest sponsored by the famous dress-designer, Lucille Duff-Gordon, with a sketch of an evening dress when he was very young. Duff-Gordon, whose fashion house was called ‘Lucille’, hired him and he decided to become a dress designer instead of an artist.
Molyneux served as an infantry captain in the First World War. He was wounded and lost an eye.
Molyneux’s Paris Salon
The loss of an eye did not deter the ambitious young man who opened his Paris salon in 1918. Captain Molyneux disliked excessive decoration and favoured simplicity and fluid lines. He had found the style of Lucille's dress-designs too ornate. Women fell in love with his smooth, bias-cut evening dresses, pleated skirts, and tailored suits. He became especially famous for backless white satin evening dresses worn with silver fox furs. He also designed velvet evening coats and dresses with ¾-length coats. Some of his designs featured a narrower waist, foreshadowing Dior’s New Look.
He liked to use black, beige, blue and grey colors. His designs had ‘a thoroughly British upper-class restraint.’
Captain Molyneux also designed lingerie and hats and commissioned perfumes, such as Numero Cinq, Le Chic and Fete de Molyneux. He opened new branches of his salons in Monte Carlo, Cannes, Biarritz and London.
Molyneux designed the wedding dress of Princess Marina of Greece to George, Duke of Kent in 1934.
Molyneux’s Later CareerMolyneux married Muriel Dunsmuir, the daughter of the Premier of British Columbia, Canada, in 1923. They divorced in 1924.
Edward Molyneux escaped to London in 1940 and continued to work in the English fashion trade but he left his salon in the charge of the French fashion designer, Jacques Griffe. He retired to Jamaica in 1950.
Molyneux resumed his career in 1965 and painted as well. He started the Studio Molyneux, a high-quality, ready to wear line. Unfortunately this met with limited success.
Troubled by his failing eyesight and old age, Molyneux again retired.
He died in 1974 at 83.
Parfums Berdoues
Parfums Berdoues took over Molyneux’s perfume division. Their perfumes include Captain (1975), and Quartz Pure Red (1988).
Vintage Molyneux perfumes are popular with collectors.
http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/edwardmolyneux
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